La Mission Haut-Brion 2017

96+ points - Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, March 2020

Composed of 56% Merlot, 4.4% Cabernet Franc and 39.6% Cabernet Sauvignon, the deep garnet-purple colored 2017 La Mission Haut-Brion is a little reticent on the nose to begin, slowly unfurling to reveal notes of crushed blackcurrants, Black Forest cake and Morello cherries with suggestions of cigar box, pencil shavings, charcoal and fertile loam. Medium-bodied, the palate has fantastic intensity with loads of mineral layers and a rock-solid line of firm, grainy tannins, finishing very long and with great energy.

At Château Haut-Brion and neighboring La Mission Haut-Brion, only about one hectare out of around 80 hectares of vineyards was damaged by frost in 2017. It seemed that in the areas where there was a little wind, there was no frost. Bud break was on March 13—not so early for this warm little pocket of vineyards close to the city—but the evolution of the vines was certainly faster than usual for the rest of the spring. It was a very dry, warm spring with even flowering. At the end of June, there was some rain to quench the parched vines, then July was a little cooler, according the Jean-Philippe Delmas. By mid-September, after the whites had already come in, the rains became an issue. The Merlot was almost all in before the rain, but the Cabernet Franc was affected and not much was used this year. Cabernet Sauvignon was harvested after the rains. Overall yields averaged-out at a very respectable 49.6 hectoliters per hectare. The final blends have been completed and are in barrel. While the reds are incredibly impressive at both properties in 2017, I have to confess that I was completely blown-away by the caliber of the whites. WOW! Possessing at once electric intensity and yet bags of tightly-wound layers just waiting to be expressed over many years of cellaring, this is a truly spectacular vintage for the dry whites at both estates. - Lisa Perrotti-Brown