Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia Romirasco 2014
94 points - Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, June 2018
The 2014 Barolo Bussia Romirasco shows the merits of strict fruit selection in a challenging vintage. Only 4,620 bottles were made in order to preserve the highest quality obtainable. This is a complete and generous expression that starts off with a succession of black fruit aromas and continues to lighter notes of anise seed, tar, licorice and blue violet. The mouthfeel offers volume and texture with nicely integrated tannins. "In order to get this quality, fruit selection was key," says Giacomo Conterno.
Poderi Aldo Conterno has come a long way since the generational passage sparked by the death of Aldo Conterno in 2012 at 81 years old. The winery is managed today by Aldo's three sons: Franco, Stefano and Giacomo. I spent a long time chatting with Giacomo Conterno during my visit to the Langhe this year, and we had the opportunity to reflect on the legendary status of his father and the current state of the estate. When Aldo Conterno was at his winemaking heights in the 1990s, there were just a handful of estates operating in Monforte d'Alba. Today, we can count up to 70 bottlers and producers. "New estates were coming up like mushrooms and this caused us to reflect," says Giacomo. "During that time, we made a firm decision not to make more than 80,000 bottles per year, even though our potential production could reach 500,000." Selection and low yields are the most appropriate way to honor his father's legacy, Giacomo tells me. With nostalgia, he recalls that when his father handed over the reins, he said only three words: "Fatemi bere bene" (or "let me drink well" in English). Not another word was necessary.
- Monica Larner